12th February - Stonetown Zanzibar

We went out today, having booked a car to take us on a tour of a spice farm and then on to Stonetown. We arrived at the spice farm, not far from Stonetown. A 'farm' wasn't apparent at all. There was just a small building and a open sided shelter where some products were laid out. We had a guide and his helper take us round. The guide explained the plants, how they grow and what they are used for and his helper busied himself making things with foliage. He made a container to keep the spice samples in

Then he made me a container to hold my water bottle in

Later another guy appeared and proceeded to climb a palm tree

and after retrievng two coconuts he came down cleaned them up and chopped the tops off and offered the coconut milk to us. Whilst this had been happening, the helper had made a hat for each of us and a tie for Simon. I didn't take a picture of these and we left them behind but there was one guy at the airport on the way home wearing his as a reminder!

Once the tour finished and tips were due, we were joined by other farm workers. We hadn't found the tipping culture particularly troublesome on the mainland but it was rather irritating on Zanzibar to be honest and anyone going on a tour should make sure they have lots of low denomination bills on them.

We then headed for Stonetown and were dropped of to be taken round by a guide. The temperature on the day was probably 35 degrees and there was no breeze, so it was particularly uncomfortable. Bearing in mind Stonetown and Zanzibar's rich cultural history, we were somewhat disappointed with the presentation of this. Significant buildings were dilapidated and in need of repair and the museums weren't particularly inviting or imaginative. The Fort was part of the music festival at the time we were there, I would like to see how that is presented when it is not used for events. The heat was made worse by the noise and pollution of the generators - these things of course no fault of the locals. Thank the lord the streets are mostly car free!

The architecture together with the winding narrow streets reminded me of old Mediterranean towns and cities like Nice Vieux, without the coloured paint but with a distinctive Arabian and Indian twist with the carved doors, windows and verandas and the mosques/temples. But then, many of the bigger and more significant buildings are distinctly Indian or Arab.

It was very hot and we found it very difficult to appreciate what was before us. I am not sure I would go back to Zanzibar but I am going to read more about its culture and history when I get home.

We gave up with the heat and went back to the hotel mid afternoon and jumped in the pool!